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REVIVAL OF AN IMPERIAL CRAFT - ZARDOZI :
From the medieval times the art of Zardozi has
flourished, reaching its zenith under the patronage of Emperor Akbar. This gorgeous embroidery reveals artistic
use of laid stitch with golden thread. It can be seen in wall hangings, chain stitch on zardosi saris, caps and other
articles with heavy embroidery. As the embroidery is
densely performed, designs done are extremely intricate. A zardosi saree takes 4 to 6 months to make,
depending on how complicated the designs. However, it all depends on the intricacy of designs and patterns to
be created on the sari. Weaving ethnic saris is a
functional art of India, which has been going on for centuries
within a great fabric of
Indian
traditional weavers. |
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CREATION OF ZARDOZI :
The gold wire known as zari is the thread used for zardozi embroidery. The making of zari thread is a very
tedious job involving winding, twisting, wire drawing
and gold plating of thread. The embroidery of zari
zardozi is performed in a very interesting manner. Gold wire is carefully revolved around a silver bar tapered
at one end. Then they are heated in furnace till gold and silver alloy is formed. The gilt wire, when drawn
through a series of holes made on steel plates, comes out glittering as gold. The gold-coated silver wire is
then flattened and twisted around silk thread to obtain zari.
Zardozi has remained as an appliqué method of embroidery. With one hand the craftsman holds a
retaining thread below the fabric. In the other he holds a hook or a needle with which he picks up the appliqué
materials. Then he passes the needle or hook through the fabric. After hours of painstaking labor, the result is
an exquisite gold-veined work of art.
THE DECLINE :
During the rule of Aurangzeb, the royal patronage extended to craftsmen was stopped. Many craftsmen left
Delhi to seek work in the courts of Rajasthan and Punjab. The onset of industrialization in the 18th and
19th centuries was another setback. Most of the craftsmen turned to other occupations.
RENAISSANCE OF ZARDOZI :
The art of zardozi was revived along with many traditional methods of embroidery in the middle of this
century. Zari work was mainly done in Madras and zardoziin Hyderabad until a few decades ago. Today, Uttar
Pradesh is home to this finest work of gold and silver embroidery. This craft has caught on to a larger region
of Bareilly such as Allampur, Faridpur, Biharkala, Nawabganj and Chandpur.
The non availability of gold on a large scale became a hurdle in the making of zari threads. The problem was
overcome by combining copper wire with a golden sheen and gold colored silk thread.
Another major problem was the availability of skilled zardozi craftsmen. As the craft was on decline, the
number of craftsmen decreased, as they had taken on other jobs. But with the revival of the craft, their
number began to increase.
INNOVATIONS AND SUCCESS :
New designs and products have been introduced apart from
the traditional ones. Some of the products are cushion and pillow covers, bedspreads, handbags, sandals and
buttons.
Zardozi on kurta-pajamas and chooridar- achkans (tight trousers and men’s coat) have gained popularity among
the men.
Zardozi-embroidered garments have become quite popular with Indians abroad. Zardozi is also beginning to
attract the attention of top fashion designers the world over.
THE PRESENT GLORY :
For the time being, Surat and Banaras remain the
principal saree suppliers of zari material and
zardozi crafts. Major handicraft shops sell these embroidered garments,
which have become very popular now. Taking orders for embroidery to the customer’s specifications is a major
development brought into this art by the craftsmen. As a whole, the popularity of this extraordinary craft is
quite on rise. All the saree stores in India have rich collection of zardosi saris.
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