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CHANDERI AND MAHESHWARI :
The Chanderi saree from Madhya Pradesh is light and meant for Indian summers. It is made in silk or fine
cotton with patterns taken from the Chanderi temples.
Chanderi is primarily a weavers town. It produces fine shimmering cottons with pale delicate zari borders and
motifs of the utmost delicacy. The characteristic feature of the Chanderi sari is
the quality of the gold thread that is used. Kanjivaram is synonymous with hand
woven silk saris and known for its dark, heavy silks, usually with flat stripes of gold decorating the
borders. These conservative designs are considered to be more restrained and dignified than the occasionally
flamboyant Chanderi saris. Kanjivaram silk also has a reputation for durability. A very distinctive feature of
these saris, as opposed to those from other parts of India, is the contrasting color of the border and the
pallav, as compared to the body of the sari.
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Utsav sareesis the best shop where you can find chanderi saris, chanderi sari at the lowest possible prices on the internet,
also you can learn more about light weight chanderi sarees and its origin.
Madhya Pradesh is famous for its delicate weaves in Chanderi and Maheshwari sarees.
In Chanderi, traditional craftspersons used silk as warp and fine cotton as weft. The Chanderi cotton sarees are
ideal summer wear. Usually in subtle hues, they have a sophistication hard to match. In the silk "Zari" sarees,
craft influences of the Varanasi style are visible. The chanderi saris generally have a rich gold border and two gold
bands on the pallav. The more expensive sarees have gold checks with lotus roundels all over which are known as
butis.
Maheshwar on the banks of Narmada, is an important centre. The Maheshwari saree, mostly in cotton and silk,
is characterised by its simplicity. The body is either chequered, plain or has stripes, combined with
complementary colours. The reversible border of the saree which can be worn either side, is a speciality. It
has a variety of leaves and flowers on the border, in karnphool pattern, which is quite popular. The pallav of
Maheshwari saree is also distinctive with five stripes, three coloured and two white alternating. Nowadays these
sarees are made in natural and artificial silk as well.
Tussar silk produced in Madhya Pradesh, is known by its Sanskrit name 'kosa'. Raigarh and Champa are important
centres for tussar silk sarees and fabrics, where the weaving is done by the Devangan community. These sarees
radiate a natural brilliance due to the fibre used. Brocade work is done with Zari to give them an ornate
look. The pallavs and borders of the sarees are woven with thread, coloured in the Ikat style to give it a
designer touch. Apart from sarees, a wide range of tussar dress material is also available. The Kostha
weavers of Chhattisgarh make sarees called 'Mailooga' and 'Gamchha'. These sarees have simple designs and are
worn by the Gond, Baiga and Kanwar tribals. For the Muria, Maria, Dhruva and Gadba tribals, the local
weavers weave special dresses for folk dance performances namely Dhruva-Bandhipata and Tual. Special
weaving is done using coloured threads (red and brown) of the 'Aal' (madder) tree roots.
TRADITION CHANDERI - MOULDING EXQUISITE :
The drape, the delicacy, the artistry and the sheer majesty of the Chanderi Saree is a secret passed down
from generation to generation. Echoing the grandeur of a bygone era. Well protected in the town of Chanderi with
its fortress like base of a hill sarees craftsmanship defies the wrinkled hands and deep set eyes of the
craftsman working with single minded dedication. Weaving sarees through the proverbial 'hole in the finger nail'.
The magic is in thread, warp and weft.
History, Process and Varieties - Facination Facets
In Chanderi, locally grown cotton was spun as fine as 300s counts. The fame of Chanderi cottons competed with
the famed muslins of Dhaka. After the industrial revolution, the import of mill spun 120s to 200s count
Manchester yarn via Calcutta wiped out this local strain of Chanderi cottons. Around the 1930s Japanese silk came
to Chaderi via Calcutta and was introduced in the wrap while cotton was retained in the weft of the
Chanderi. This combination continues till date with the entirely
silk by silk varieties. Problems in brush sizing fine cotton, higher preference for silk (silk by silk 60%,
silk by cotton 30% to 40% of the production) and higher profits with silk have contributed to the end of cotton
by cotton sarees in the course of the 20th century.
Today, though modern fly shuttle looms are being used, still the magic of the master weaver is not lost. The
fame and elegance of the soft Chanderi colours lie in their constant reference to nature. Motifs drawn from
earth and sky. Hunting scenes, the tree of life. Man, woman, birds, fruits, flowers, heavenly bodies. All
exquisite detail far surpassing their role models.
The Chanderi colours always show a preference for harmony between the borders and the body of the sarees.
However, there are some typical contrasting combinations like black against red and Ganga - Jamuna sarees, with
green on one border and red or Kumkum on the other with a natural offwhite body.
Patterns, Design and Varieties in Chanderi Portary Eternal Spring
Chanderi is also famous for weaving and extremely fine zari band (patti) right up to the selvedge edge, known
as Piping kinar. Great attention is paid to the Buti or Motif in the body which enriches the design vocabulary.
Meenakari or inlay in the Motif and the Addedar Patela in which the band is woven to jewelled cut-work effect
are latest additions.
Kalgi is another typical Chanderi Motif that runs along the edge of the border. The use of the fine echoing
lines called Baccha is also a Chanderi characteristic.
Come, indulge yourself, transform the woman in you
THE LEGACY OF QUEEN
:
This saree, as revealed by its name, has its origin in the town of Maheshwar, established by the austere queen
Ahilya Bai who desired to live away from the bustling capital city of Indore. The intricately carved stone
walls of her palace and temple are the inspiration for the elaborate patterns and borders of the Maheshwari Saree.
The saree woven from pure silk, is famous for its strength, elasticity and a unique luster of the fabric.
The use of zari and particular texture and sheen of the "garbh reshmi" saree of Maheshwari give it a distinct
identity amongst the wealth of Indian sarees
and made it a much coveted item even in time as far back as 18th century India.
COLOUR AND DESIGN MOTIFS
:
As is normally the case with any long regional tradition, the language of the Maheshwari sari evokes
images of serene fruitful nature. The hues and shades of the fabric are referred to in the vernacular as Angoori
(grape green),Dalimbi (deep pink), Gul Bakhshi (magenta), Rani (deep mauve pink), Kaasni (light
violet), Jaamla (purple), Dhaani (green), Chintamani (peacock blue), Aamrak (golden), Tapkeeree (deep brown). etc.
The use of zari and kinari is also unique to the Maheshwari saree.. The golden thread is used to weave
exotic motifs and designs on the flowdah (body) kinar (border) and the anchra (pallu) of the saree. Especially
lovely are motifs like Guldasta, Aambuta, Ghunggroo, Chatai kinar, Bel phool, Jai phool, Hansa, Mayur, Baila
Ankhi, Ambi Buti and Chandtara.
Once patronised by the royal house of this region , the magnificent Maheshwari was worn by the queens and the
princesses along with Tussar and Chanderi sarees. Today, fortunately with efforts of organisations like
Mrignayani, this exquisite chanderi saree is available to all those women who appreciate beauty and understand the
dignified elegance, be it a marriage, a festival or a formal party.
SAREES - THE TIMELESS DRAPES OF GRACE
:
From time immemorial, the ubiquitous saree, worn by Indian women across the length and breadth of the
country has stood as the tangible symbol of ethereal grace and beauty. A seamless length of the cloth,
ranging from 5 yards to 11 yards, the charm of the saree lies in the mysterious drapes and folds with which it
winds around the feminine form in myriad entrancing shapes and styles.
In the thousands of years of its evolution, particular forms of the saree have risen above regional usage and
have achieved widespread preference and fame amongst the Indian women. Such are the saree of Madhya Pradesh.
Primary among them are Chanderi, Maheshwari, Tussar and cotton coveted and sought by almost all women in India
and abroad.
And it is these beauteous sarees to which Mrignayani has devoted itself, in an effort to make them accessible to
rest of the world. Mrignayani also ensures that the unique weaving of these sarees, and the craftsmen who
create them continue to flourish and evolve and the tradition of the Master Craftsmen continues to form an
integral part of the Indian ethos. Let Mrignayani take you through a magical journey of craftsmanship and
acquaint you with the unique nuances which make the sarees of Madhya Pradesh so special.
TUSSAR SAREES : SENSUOUS SHADES IN SILK :
Tussar Silk, also known as Kosa Silk, is valued for its purity and texture. Kosa Silk is drawn from cocoons
especially grown on Arjun, Saja or Sal trees. Available naturally in shades of gold-pale, dark, honey, tawny,
baccoto beige, creamy, etc. Tussar Silk is considered an ideal as well as auspicious wear for marriages,
religious ceremonies and other important functions. This original rich gold shade Tussar is dyed with colours of
a very special hue and depth. Earlier only natural dyes were used which included yellow from the palaas flame of
the forest, the Kusum Flower, the rich red pollen dust of the Rora Flower and the deep rose red from Lac. But
with time the range of colour and motifs have increased dramatically.
Colour and Design Motifs
In the vernacular, the myriad tints of silk sound as exotic as the Tussar saree itself Dhaniya (light green),
Mas (deep blue), Kariya (black), Anchi (deep purple), Jamalla (purple), Darra (deep rose red), Katha (maroon),
Took Lal (bright red), Narangi (orange), Piura (yellow), Rani (deep Indian pink), Malti (mauve pink), Phiroza
(turquoise), Chanderi sarees etc. Similarly, the motifs and the patterns also continuously
refer to nature and daily life Teen, Phulia, Chicholi Phool, Crown Phool, Rui Phool, Karan Phool, Chitpat,
Kangoora, Sankari, Janjeer, Mandir, Ghungroo, Motim Chowk Choor, Singhaulia, Bhaonrai, Chatai, Karvat,
Chowkda, etc., that are carefully chosen to enhance the beauty of gorgeous natural silk. The look of the Tussar
Saree, plain or coloured, is so rich that it is a favourite choice for formal occasions. Apart from the
saree itself, Tussar Silk is also used to make other dresses such as salwar-kameez, lehengas, dupattas, jackets, shirts and achkans. It lends itself beautifully
to printing and painting and is being increasingly used innovatively in designer boutique.
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