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A-line Gown |
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Its a styline resembling letter A, in which the dress fits at the shoulder and gradually flares out a wider hemline. |
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A-line Skirt/fit And Flare Skirt |
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A skirt that is fitted at the waist and flares out in an A-line or tulip shape at the hem. |
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Aabla |
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Mirror work which has its roots in Rajasthan and Kutch. |
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Aari |
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Embroidery done on a cot. Also known as khatla work aari originated in Barabanki. |
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Aari Work (patched) |
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Gujarati art where patches of hand-embroidered cotton cloth are stitched together. The embroidery is hand done by skilled specialized artisans. |
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Abho |
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A loose shirt-like garment, worn by women mostly in Gujarat and Rajasthan. The garment was generally worn with short, wide sleeves, open at the neck, loose-fitting on the upper part and flared in its skirt. Often decorated with embroidery and mirror-glass work. |
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Absorbency |
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The ability of a fabric to take in moisture.Absorbency is a very important property, which effects many other characteristics such as skin comfort, static build-up, shrinkage, stain removal, water repellency, and wrinkle recovery.
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Acetate |
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A manufactured fiber formed by compound of cellulose, refined from cotton linters and/or wood pulp, and acetic acid that has been extruded through a spinneret and then hardened. Acetate is a fiber primarily used in fabrics for pants and jacket linings. Acetate is silky, thin, dries fast and is resistant to shrinking and stretching. Acetate fabrics also drape and dye well. |
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Acrylic |
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A manufactured fiber derived from polyacrylonitrile. Acrylic is soft, quick-drying, and resistant to shrinkage and wrinkles. The durable fiber is machine washable and dryable with excellent color retention. |
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Adhesive |
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It is an essential part of the manufacturing process for a variety of apparel applications ranging from applying labels, decorative trim and waterproofing tapes to innovative solutions like stitchless garment construction. |
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Alpaca |
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A natural hair fiber from Llamas. It's similar to cashmere in its softness and luxury. Suitable for jackets, coats or throws. |
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Alter |
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To Change the pattern so that it corresponds to body measurements. |
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Angiaiangika |
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Short, tight-fitting bodice worn by women in India from very early times. Literally, 'covering for the body'. |
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Argyle |
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A pattern designed with different color diamond shapes knit into a fabric.A popular design for knitted fabrics. Two or three colors are generally used in a diamond shape arrangement |
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Asharfi Buti |
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A popular textile design consisting of small floral discs or circles, sometimes with small patterns within the circle.Basically,used in Indian ethnic embroidery. |
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Assisi Embroidery |
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Assisi embroidery belongs to the town of Assisi in Italy. It involves filling of the entire background of the fabric with cross-stitch except the motif, which is left blank. The motif is outlined by Holbein stitch. Traditionally, red, blue, green or gold |
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Aubergine |
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Reddish purple-brown colour. |
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Automatic Color Change |
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The ability of a multi-needle commercial embroidery machine to follow a command to change to another specified needle without intervention. |
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Back Drape |
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A length of material attached either at the shoulder or the waist that flows over the back to floor length. In some cases it is removable. |
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Back Stitch |
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The back stitch appears to be similar to Holbein stitch, although it differs in technique. One line of stitching requires a solitary journey from one end to the other. Backstitch is done from right to left. Bring the thread up on the line and insert needle a little to the right. Now bring needle up again an equal distance ahead. Insert again at beginning of the last stitch. |
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Back Yoke |
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An added section of fabric in a shirt or pants that enhances the fit. On a shirt, the yoke is usually on the back across the top shoulder area but can also be on the front shoulder to chest area. On pants, it is generally on the back of jeans-style pants located below the waistband. |
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Backing |
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The bottom or back layer of a quilt, usually a plain unadorned fabric that has been pieced to the width of the quilt.
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Backstitch, Double Threaded |
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Work a row as in backstitch with a single-thread. Complete stitch by lacing back in opposite direction |
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Backstitch, Single Threaded |
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Work a row of backstitch. With a contrasting colour thread in a blunt needle, lace in and out of the back-stitches. Don't pull the stitches too tight. |
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Badla Work |
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Delicate needle-work done with flattened gold or silver wire. |
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Bagh |
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The bagh is an offshoot of phulkari and almost always follows a geometric pattern, with green as the basic color. Green is probably predominant because Muslims have traditionally been doing bagh work. Although lacking in technical finesse, it makes up for the loss by a variety of colorful motifs. Simply everything goes into the design elephants, houses, crops, the sun, the moon, gardens and even kites. |
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Ball Gown |
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A ballgown is a type of long dress that is fitted at the bodice, with a very full skirt. This is the most formal dress silhouette, usually reserved for the dressiest of occasions. The ballgown looks best on average height to taller women, as the full skirt visually cuts the body in half. However, the ballgown is a very forgiving style, hiding everything from tummies to full hips and legs |
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Ballerina Neckline |
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This is a low neckline that usually occurs with strapless or spaghetti strapped dresses. |
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Bandeau/tube Top |
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A band-shaped covering for the breasts |
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Bandhani |
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A process of patterning cloth by tie-dyeing in which the design is reserved on the undyed cloth by tying small spots very tightly with thread to protect them from the dye. Especially popular in Rajasthan and Gujarat |
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Banjara |
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The embroidery of the lamada gypsy tribe of Andhra Pradesh, banjara is a mix of applique with mirrors and beadwork. Bright red, yellow, black and white colored cloth is laid in bands and joined with a white criss-cross stitch. |
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Bark Cloth |
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It originally referred to fabric made from the bark of trees. Today, the term describes fabric with a bark-like surface texture. Bark cloth is now most often made from 100% cotton. The bark cloths made today often have vintage designs reminiscent of those used during the heyday of bark cloth: the 1940s and 50s.
Bark cloth should only be dry-cleaned.
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Basketweave Stitch |
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The basketweave stitch is a form of tent stitch, which is worked diagonally across the fabric. Although the front does not suggest a basketweave design, the back of the fabric forms a basketweave pattern. A variation of the plain weave in which two or more warp and filling threads are woven side to side to resemble a plaited basket. |
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Basque Waist/v-waist |
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This dropped waist starts at or just below the natural waistline, and dips in the center creating a "V" shape. |
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Bateau Neck/boat Neck |
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A high, wide, straight neckline that runs straight across the front and back, meeting at the shoulders; the same depth in the front and back. |
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Batik |
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Batik is an Indonesian fabric dyeing technique. Certain areas of the fabric are coated with wax or paste to keep dye from penetrating. After dyeing the wax is removed so the design appears in the original color of the cloth. The process can be repeated several times to achieve the desired result. The veined look of some batik is due to dye penetrating through cracks in the wax.This is practised in Gujrat State of India. |
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Batiste |
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Batiste is a sheer, soft, plain-weave fabric often made of combed cotton, polyester/cotton or silk. Batiste can be used for nightwear, lingerie, shirts and dresses. |
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Batting |
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Batting is traditionally the middle layer, or stuffing, of a quilt. Batting can be made from cotton, polyester, silk, wool or a blend of these. Different types of batting vary in size and fiber content. Batting also helps conserve warmth. |
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Bayadere |
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Silk in a crosswise rib (plain or twill weave). Has brightly colored stripes in the filling direction. Often black warp. The color effects are usually startling or bizarre. Mostly produced in India. Name derived from the Bajadere dancing girl of India, dedicated from birth to a dancing life. The Bayadere costume includes the striped garment, a flimsy scarf or shawl, jeweled trousers, spangles, sequins, anklets. Used in blouses, dresses, and evening wear. |
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Bean Stitch |
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Three stitches placed back and forth between two points. Often used for outlining because it eliminates the need for repeatedly digitizing a single-ply running stitch outline. |
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Bedford Cord |
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Fibre: Wool or worsted but worsted is more popular. Also made in cotton, silk and rayon. |
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Bengaline |
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It is a ribbed fabric similar to faille,but heavier and with a coarser rib in the filling direction. It can be made of silk,wool,acetate or rayon warp,with wool or cotton filling.The fabric was first made in Bengal,India and is used for dresses, coats, trimmings and draperies. |
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Besom Pockets |
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A pocket sewn inside the garment with access through a welted slit-type opening |
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Bias Cut |
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Cut diagonally across the grain of a fabric. Used to create garments that follow the body curves closely. |
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Bike Tards |
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A close-fitting, one-piece garment from the top of the torso to the hem of the shorts. |
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Birdseye |
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In cotton and Linen or blend of rayon staple and cotton.Very soft, lightweight, and absorbent. Woven with a loosely twisted filling to increase absorbency. Launders very well. No starch is applied because the absorption properties must be of the best.A fabric woven with a pattern of small diamonds, each having a dot in the center.
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Blackwork Embroidery |
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As the name suggests, blackwork embroidery is black thread work on white or off-white fabric. It is used mainly on even-weave fabric. Blackwork is counted-thread embroidery, where the number of strands is counted before beginning the threadwork. |
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Blanket Stitch |
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This stitch is worked from left to right. Bring needle up and hold the loop of thread down with left thumb. Make a vertical stitch as in diagram, bringing the needle out over loop of thread. |
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Blatt Stitch |
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Schiffli term meaning "to feed the yarn", which produces a long zigzag stitch with threads lying close together. |
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Blazer |
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A long-sleeved sports jacket with lapels |
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Bleeding |
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When a fabric or yarn loses it color after being immersed in water. |
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Blend |
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A term used to describe a garment made up of more than 1 fiber. |
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Bobbin Case |
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Small, round metal device for holding the bobbin. Used to tension the bobbin thread, it is inserted in the hook for sewing. |
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Boiled Wool |
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Felted knitted wool, it offers the flexibility of a knit with great warmth. Create your own by washing double the needed amount of 100% wool jersey in hot water and drying in a hot dryer. Expect 50% shrinkage. Appropriate for jackets, vests and stuffed animals. |
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Bolero Jacket |
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A loose, waist-length jacket open at the front |
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Bolivia (elysian) |
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Wool. Sometimes contains alpaca or mohair.: Pile face, which varies in depth. Soft and has a velvety feel. Usually piece dyed. Usually has lines or ridges in the warp or in a diagonal direction on one side. Comes in light, medium and heavy weights. |
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Bombazine |
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a lightweight fabric with a silk warp and a cotton, wool or linen weft |
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Boot-cut |
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Cut below the belly button and slightly flares from the knee to the ankle. |
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Boring |
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Open-work incorporated into embroidered designs; a sharp pointed instrument punctures the fabric, and stitches are made around the opening to enclose the raw edges. |
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Boucl |
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A knit or woven fabric with small curls or loops that create a nubby surface. The fabric has a looped, knotted surface and is often used in sweater looks, vests and coats. a French word describing a looped or curly yarn. The name is also given to fabrics with looped or curly surfaces. |
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Bouton |
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A projecting nub or "button," achieved through hand-manipulation of the weft thread usually placed on coverlets at the intersection of warp and weft cordons;button. |
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Box-pleated |
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Two folds of fabric brought together to form a pleat |
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Boy-leg |
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Shorts, undergarments, or swimwear that has a close fitting leg that reaches half way down the thigh. |
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Brazilian Embroidery |
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Brazilian embroidery is done using rayon thread and not silk, cotton or wool. High-sheen rayon thread is used to cast embroidery that includes mostly flowery patterns. Brazilian Embroidery is hand stitchery done predominantly with dimensional stitches using the Z-twisted rayon threads; with the original Fine Growth/Field Flowers encouraged. |
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Brillantine |
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a fine cloth of silk and cashmere |
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Broadcloth |
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A plain weave tightly woven fabric that is usually made from 100% cotton or a cotton blend. Most common uses are quilting and shirt-making. |
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Brocade |
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Originally a heavy silk fabric with floral or silver thread and first produced in China and Japan. Now Brocades are woven with richly figured patterns emphasised by contrasting colours or by satin weave figures. |
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Brocade Silk Fabric |
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The brocade silk fabric is a jacquard weave that has an embossed surface. The surface is contrasting, and the fabric can be weaved with other manmade fibers. |
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Broomstick |
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A skirt or dress that is characterized by numerous pleats and crinkled material. |
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Brushing |
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A finishing process in which circular rotating brushes raise the nap on knit or woven fabrics. |
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Burlap |
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A loosely constructed, heavy weight, plain weave fabric. It has a rough hand. Appropriate for draperies and decorative items. |
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Burn Test |
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used (under strict conditions and controls) for identifying fibres. Different fibres react in different and distinct ways when burnt. Cotton burns steadily and smells like burning leaves. |
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Burn-out Velvet |
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Created from two different fibers, the velvet is removed with chemicals in a pattern leaving the backing fabric intact. Appropriate for more unconstructed and loosely fit garments |
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Butas And Butis |
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Motifs composed of floral forms fitted into paisley shapes derived from the Mughal era. |
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Buti |
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A diminutive of buta(q.v.), very commonly used in Indian textile design |
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Buttonhole Stitch |
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Buttonhole stitches are handmade stitches where the needle after going through the loop of the thread returns to the backside of the cloth at 90° from the start position. It normally appears like the letter ‘L’. |
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Camisole |
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A short, sleeveless garment for women |
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Camp Pockets |
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Pockets that are sewn to the outside of the garment, usually squared off and characterized by seaming. |
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Candlewick Embroidery |
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The embroidery is so called because of the thread used resembles a candle wick. Traditionally, candlewick embroidery (also known as candlewicking) is done on an unbleached muslin fabric using unbleached cotton thread. |
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Canvas |
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Cotton or linen fabric with an even weave that is heavy and firm. |
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Cap Frames |
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Specialized embroidery frames designed to hold finished caps for embroidering. Available in a variety of styles for various machines, with two basic styles being to sew the finished cap flattened out, or sewing the finished cap (on a tubular machine) |
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Cap Sleeve |
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A small, short sleeve which sits on the shoulder, either forming a stiff cap or falling on to the arm to provide minimal coverage. |
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Capri Pants |
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Fairly straight-cut pants, tapered to the mid-calf |
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Cardigan Jacket |
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A usually collarless sweater or jacket that opens the full length of the center front. |
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Cargo |
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Characterized by sporting a large pocket usually with a flap and a pleat |
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Carpenter Pants/shorts |
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Five-pocket pants characterized by a "hammer holder," a stretch of material connecting the outside seam to the back pocket. |
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Cashmere ( Kashmir ) |
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From the Kashmir goat, a hair fibre found in Kashmir India , Tibet , Iran , Iraq , and South west China . Often mixed with wool or synthetics to cut costs and improve the wear.Fibre is cylindrical, soft and silken. More like wool than any other hair fibre |
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Cathedral Train |
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(Also known as a monarch train); a cascading train extending six to eight feet behind the gown, for the most formal weddings. |
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Challis (chalys) |
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From the Kashmir goat, a hair fibre found in Kashmir India , Tibet , Iran , Iraq , and South west China . Often mixed with wool or synthetics to cut costs and improve the wear.Fibre is cylindrical, soft and silken. More like wool than any othe hair fibre. |
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Chamba Rumals |
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The red and orange richly embroidered silk scarves of Chamba are simply beautiful. They often depict scenes from the Mahabharata, the Ramayana and the Raaslila of Radha and Krishna. The embroidery is done in silk yarn on tussar (silk) or fine cotton. The ground is usually white or cream, but the embroidery threads (usually red and orange) are in striking contrast. |
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Chapel Train |
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The most popular of all train lengths, it flows from three to four feet behind the gown. |
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Charmeuse Silk Fabric |
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Charmeuse silk fabric is a silk with satin weave. It may at times be woven with crepe at the back for which it is also known as crepe backed satin. The warp threads cross over three or even more backing threads. It is soft and supple, and drapes elegantly |
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Chemise/skimmer |
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Simply a straight unbelted dress with varying sleeves and length |
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Chiffon (french For "rag") |
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Very sheer, airy lightweight fabric with highly twisted filament yarns. Originally of silk but now made from rayon and other man-made fibres. |
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Chiffon Silk Fabric |
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Chiffon silk fabric is a soft and lightweight transparent fabric. It can be weaved with other manmade and cotton fibers to lend variety to the fabric. |
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Chikan Stiched Silk Salwar Kameez |
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Silk, the royal fabric is beautifully tailored to make suits with delightful chikan embroidery. The silk chikan stiched salwar kameez are available in different styles and designs to suit various occasions. The embroideries displayed here can be done on a |
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Chikankari |
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Lucknow in Uttar Pradesh is the hotbed of white thread embroidery on white or colored cotton. Intricate and complex, this work is similar to what is commonly known as shadow work. The beauty of the embroidery comes through on fine muslin cloth, where you can see the stitches forming lace-like patterns on the underside. |
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China Silk Fabric |
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This plain weave silk comes in many weights. China silk fabric is very soft to touch. The light silk is used for lining purposes, while the heavy variety is used to make shirts and dresses. |
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Chinese Silk Fabric |
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This plain weave silk comes in many weights. Chinese silk fabric is very soft to touch. The light silk is used for lining purposes, while the heavy variety is used to make shirts and dresses. |
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Chino |
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Cotton.Combined two-ply warp and filling. Has a sheen that remains. Fabric was purchased in China (thus the name) by the U.S. Army for uniforms. Originally used for army cloth in England many years before and dyed olive-drab. |
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