There are various styles in making and wearing a sari. These are determined as much by geographical
location in India as by tradition and taste. Different styles include,
kanchivaram, patola,
hakoba, zari, and others.
‘Zari’ thread is composed of 3 critical components integrated together by well developed process of spinning
and gilding. The three components are-
Ultra-fine Silver wire : Very fine silver wire, made up of silver and copper in various proportions is drawn to size of
25 micron. The composition of Kancheepuram grade wire is 77%
Silver and 23% Copper
Silk thread : The silk thread forms the core over which the flattened Silver alloy wire is wound.
Gold coating : The uncoated silver thread is then given a gold coating employing the well known electroplating process
which is controlled to give uniform covering with overall gold content of 0.59% - 0.60%.
The gold coated silver thread containing the silk core is called "ZARI".
India has long been known for its golden thread of zari. Even in the ancient times, zari was known to adorn the
attire of Gods. Ethnic saree zari sarees/golden sarees are made up of gold and silver
threads. The thread work is done by master craftsman to give zari saree a extra-ordinary place in the saree world.
Resham cotton and zari also come from Surat which remains the cotton belt for over several centuries. Surat's zari
industry has had much lustre. Millions of Indian brides are indebted to Surat because the zari extensively used in the
sarees and dress materials they wear come from the city.
Surat has a virtual monopoly of zari making. Its a hot market of embroidered zari saris in India.
Most of the zari produced in Surat goes to Varanasi and other pockets of Uttar Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka and
Andhra Pradesh where these Indian ethnic zari sarees are manufactured. In Varanasi, the Surat zari is used in the
manufacture of the world famous "Banarasi sarees." It's also used in the "Kanjivaram" sarees produced in south India.
Pale delicate zari borders are formed to give cotton sarees
a rich look. What is generally needed in weaving Banarasi sarees is silk yarn, zari, loom with dharki' (bobbin), and
of course the skilled hands of a weaver. The tissue variety introduced by the weavers for the winter season and festive
occasions, comprises of zari instead of cotton in the weft, making the sari quite expensive. In the silk "Zari" sarees,
craft influences of the Varanasi style are visible. The sarees generally have a rich gold border and two gold bands
on the pallav. The more expensive sarees have gold checks with lotus roundels all over which are known as butis.
Raigarh and Champa are important centres for tussar
silk sarees and fabrics, where the weaving is done by the Devangan community. These sarees radiate a natural
brilliance due to the fiber used.
Brocade work is done with Zari to give them an ornate look. The pallavs and borders of
the zari sarees are woven with thread, coloured in the Ikat style to give it a designer touch.
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