There are
varieties of bandhej saree available in two contrasting colors, with borders, end-pieces and one or more large central medallion called a pomcha or padma (lotus flower). Red
and black is the most common color combination but other pairs of colors are also found. For instance, the
panetar saree is a Gujarati-Hindu saree of satin weave and Gajji silk with red borders, central medallions and
a white body, which may contain regularly spaced red tie-dyed spots.
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Bandhni was introduced in Jamnagar when the city was founded 400 years ago. This city has now become one of the principal centers of bandhni, creating new pattern
and experimenting with modern colors.
The earliest reference to bandheni is in Bana Bhatt's
Harshacharita, where he describes a royal wedding, "the
old matrons were skilled in many sorts of textile
patterning, some of which were in the process of being
tied (bandhya mana)". This material was used to make the
skirts for women.
Abandhoni garment was considered auspicious for the bride. One also finds the maids in the Ajanta wall
paintings wearing blouses of tie and dye patterns.
Another type of tie and die sari is shibori sari.
TIE AND DYE TODAY :
Today women and girls can be seen sitting in their homes
with pieces of malmal (fine muslin), handloom or silk
cloth. This cloth is first bleached and then folded into
two or four layers depending on the thickness of the
cloth. A rangara or designer marks the layout of the
pattern on the material using wooden blocks dipped in
geru, a burnt sienna color mixed with water. The
craftsmen then begin to tie the cloth, which is not to
be dyed. The folds of the material within the small
motif are lifted and tied together. The material with
the first set of ties is dyed yellow.
RAW MATERIALS NEEDED :
The raw materials required for bandhni sarees (tie &
die saree) are - muslin,
handloom or silk cloth, ordinary thread for tying,
starch and colors for dyeing. Traditionally vegetable
dyes were used but today chemical dyes are becoming very
popular. The tools required are also very basic - wooden
blocks for marking designs and the simple implements for
dyeing.
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